Robin Givhan, The Fashion Bomb, and my A in class

The following is a feature story I wrote for my Journalism class this past semester. I worked hard on trying to secure the interviews and I'm extremely proud I was able to do so. When my professor said "write about what interests you", it was only natural for me to pick something fashion related. Plus, it was still relatively close to Fashion Week and the topic of black models was still fresh.

Robin Givhan. I heart her. Photo from: NY Mag: The Cut

In an act of sheer hope, I emailed Robin Givhan, style writer for the Washington Post (and one of the leading black female writers in the fashion industry) requesting an email interview. Two days later, I got a response saying yes. I nearly died. If you follow me on Twitter, you might remember how much I was freaking out. It was a good day. So if by any chance Robin Givhan is reading my tiny little blog, I'd like to say thank you. Journalism/writing is not my forte, I'm trying to develop it as I go along (thus this blog). I'm more of a PR kinda gal. But having her agree to be apart of my little assignment from a no name school meant (and still does) the world.

I'd also like to thank Claire, of The Fashion Bomb (you know you're addicted to her site!). She also agreed to answer a few questions for me (again via email). I love reading The Fashion Bomb and I know she has a unique voice in the urban community so I was quite honored when she said yes.

And so without further adieu...my article (PS: I could care less about what anybody says, I got an A for this...BOOYAH!)

---------------

"You know, the American president may be black, but as a black woman, I am still an exception in this business. I always have to work harder to be treated equally." These are the words of British supermodel, Naomi Campbell, appearing in a Glamour interview in Germany.

"In the past, there were more opportunities for black models but the trend towards blond women has again become extreme. In magazines, on the catwalk, I see blond, blue-eyed models everywhere," she added.

The lack of models of color on the runways has always been a hot topic in the fashion industry. It's not only black models that are searching for work, but Asians, Hispanics and Middle Eastern women, too.

The fashion industry plays a huge role in promulgating ideas of beauty and how the people in charge choose to represent beauty has a huge impact. It's also naive to think that casting happens anything but deliberately, it's natural for one to notice when a model of color is booked and for whom.

In the 1970s and 1980s, there were a reasonable number of black models present in the industry. This all changed, however, during the 1990s, when the aesthetic changed. "In the 1990s, the rise of the waifs, the popularity of a particular Brazilian aesthetic (a non-black one) and the fascination with Eastern European models, meant a decline in the number of black models working in high profile shows and advertising campaigns," says Robin Givhan, style writer for the Washington Post.

There were 116 labels that held shows at the recently ended New York fashion week this past February; that's 3,697 spots in runway and presentation lineups. Of those, 668 were given to models of color - which, at just over 18%- and is 6% better than one year ago.

The underrepresentation of black women on the runway comes despite the fact that, according to estimates by Targetmarketnews.com, black women alone spend more than $20 billion on apparel each year. In the fall of 2007, WWD reported that one-third of the New York shows used absolutely no models of color at all.

Within the last year, however, major progress has been shown.

The progress came after much work within the fashion community to raise awareness of the lack of diversity in fashion, both on the runways and in the ateliers. Bethann Hardison, former fashion model and agency owner, spearheaded several panels on the issue of the lack of diversity over the last two years. "The use of so many Eastern European models essentially meant that the runways were overwhelmed by very thin, white models. The lack of diversity became impossible to ignore. And Bethann was a strong catalyst. She has credibility in the industry," says Givhan

"I think the discussions have been quite helpful in making the industry aware of the shortage and also getting people to ask themselves: Why don't I use more black models? And then determining whether they can live with that answer."

Then there was the much anticipated "All Black Issue" released by Italian Vogue last summer. The magazine- featuring all black models such as Iman, Tyra Banks, Liya Kebede, Jourdan Dunn and Alek Wek, among others- sold out within 72 hours of its release and 30,000 more copies had to be sent to the United States due to the demand. This event put the notion that "black models don't sell covers" to rest.

Why this is happening now is a question some seem to ponder. Claire Sulmers, journalist and editor of the popular urban fashion blog www.fashionbombdaily.com, says, "Many reasons, but perhaps with the Obama White House, fashion is seeing that if we can have a black man in the White House, we can and should have black women on the covers of magazines."

This year, American Vogue featured models Jourdan Dunn and Chanel Iman in an editorial shoot in its January issue, has First Lady Michelle Obama on its March cover, and now has singer Beyoncé on the cover of the April "Shape" issue.

"At the time there were less black models than there are now. I think, thanks to Bethann, people have started to take notice and respond in concrete ways, "says Sulmers.

"There's definitely been an increase of black models on the runway with additions like Sessilee [Lopez], Ardis, Jourdan, Chanel and others," says Givhan of the rise in black models.

Another catalyst in the quest of diversifying the fashion industry would be the new-and terribly chic- First Lady Michelle Obama. Designers are just itching to dress Mrs. Obama. "Every designer would love to be dressing Michelle Obama, so if you have someone in your show that looks like her, it probably isn't a bad thing," said Cindi Leive, editor in chief of Glamour, to WWD.

People just want to bring the optimism and element of change to the runways that Barack Obama brought to the election. Having a stylish First Lady helps too.

So who is responsible for booking the models? Is there anyone that can be pinpointed and blamed? Well, according to Robin Givhan, it's not that easy.

"Blame for the lack of black models? Everyone engaged in the production of a runway show or in a fashion shoot is culpable. A model scout isn't going to make an effort to find great black models if bookers aren't going to nurture them because casting agents aren't requesting them because designers aren't asking for them. And designers aren't going to ask for them if the black models who are available are bad because they're inexperienced, because they can't get booked. It's all interconnected."

Sulmers agrees saying, "I think everyone plays a part. The industry in general is very exclusive meaning minorities are largely not in positions of power to make crucial decisions."

Sulmers also makes a point in saying that most editorial staffs are very not diverse. "For many reasons, most editors, art directors, writers are not of color. Most magazines are very white washed which means that the people who make the decisions about covers, models, and spreads most likely don't think of making an effort to include ethnic models. It might not be racist; it could just be that they only think of someone who looks like them or someone familiar to them to include in the magazine."

While the number of black models being used hasn't quadrupled as some may like it to, there are noticeable increases. And to some, that's just fine. In the case of Asians, there is a substantial increase. More and more Asian models are being used in runway and print work. This is noticeable in other areas of fashion as well, such as design. The number of Asian designers has risen over the years- from veterans like Vera Wang to newcomers Jason Wu (whom Michelle Obama has supported) and Philip Lim (winner of the Council of Fashion Designers of America award).

While the Obama's can help the cause, it undeniable that they won't become the standard images of beauty.

According to Givhan, "I think their use [black models] is on the rise and I'm optimistic about the near future. It also helps that the industry is obsessed with Michelle Obama, its newest fashion icon. But these things come in waves. I don't' know how long they will remain in favor."

Copyright © 2009 Eileen Dautruche. All Rights Reserved.